Sometimes Panache Drives Me Crazy

I’m having a bad bra day today. I’m beginning to realize that I never wear my Curvy Kate bras. I don’t like the shape they give; it’s too much like the blue shape in my past post. This goes against the natural shape of my boobs, which isn't very comfortable, so I never reach for them--I usually reach for my Panache bras instead. Realizing this, I went out in search of some more Panache bras I could buy, but I hadn’t realized what a wasteland their new collection would be for me.

Here’s what they’ve got: The Sienna, a wonderful bra which I already own, which comes in just one color.

The Melody, which is an okay bra; I might buy it again in this nice pink color, but it’s not awesome.

These bras give a good shape because they have the construction shown on the left in the diagram below--the outside bottom section comes up diagonally across the cups. Because it meets the straps directly, it gives more lift from the bottom and also helps keep the boobs out of the armpits.

In the shape on the right, on the other hand, the outer bottom section does not come up to meet the strap. The result is a shape that is less compact, lower-slung, and often fairly pointy, even sometimes pointing in different directions--the east-west look. It's an older, less engineered construction, one which Panache continues to use for a dizzying number of their styles.

For instace, the dubious Tango, multiply available this season in Really Boring, A Bit Boring, and Has Cool Satin Bits On It But Still The Same Bra Really. Compare the lift and shape the black Tango Classic gives, below, to the shape the Sienna gives, at the top of the post--it's the same model.

Then there's the uncomfortable Eliza, perfectly constructed to give no uplift at all.

The Andorra, which I know is popular; it is constructed like the Eliza but with the addition of side panels which I’m not convinced would really help give any lift or shape. I’ve never tried it, though, so I can’t disparage it. There’s also this other sort of dull bra (the Emily) that’s made the same way, with the side panels.

Andorra

Emily 

A few molded T-shirt bras with uninspiring size ranges.

The Ariza, which I’ve never tried; I know from the Eliza-like construction, though, that it won’t give much uplift. You can even see that it’s not giving any uplift on the model.

And then everything else in the collection is constructed in that SAME way!

Fern

Carmel--This one even looks like an angry Furby face!

Loretta

Elsa

Paloma--a bit of flame on the pants there...

Eden--Slightly different but still no cigar!

None of them except the Melody and Sienna have bottom sections that come up to meet the strap--the essential construction to give lift and round shape in a three-section cup. It’s like Panache is phasing out the rounder shape, in favor of the old-fashioned ballistic-missile shape. Why is this happening? Who is sitting in the boardroom making these choices? Is this really what the customer demands?

Drawing from the Heart

    A year ago, in an art class, I met my friend Tammy. We immediately bonded as we laughed at each others corny jokes, and took tons of coffee breaks during our early 8am class... That lasted 3 hours!!! Our professor even enjoyed our company because we always had something to say; we were rarely the quite ones in class. When spring semester ended, Tammy and I still kept in touch. After more meetups, we soon realized we had so much more in common than we already thought. When people meet us they will often think we're sisters. She is not only an amazing friend, but also an extraordinary artist. Her designs are inspired by the art of Hena drawings. I absolutely love her work, and am sure so many others will as well! I'm also very proud of her as she reached recently reached 1,000 followers on Instagram (@paisleycraze). Y'all should definitely follow! Here are some of her pieces that I truly love:

 

 

Tutti Rouge "Betty" Review

Tutti Rouge's Betty bra is a fully padded half-cup with a single vertical seam. So far, it appears to be Tutti Rouge's most versatile cut, with the potential to work for many different shapes. It gives a very round, very compressed shape; as a result it is also slightly minimizing in terms of projection. It will tend to provide a lot of cleavage on most shapes.

In terms of sizing, the Betty runs the same as Tutti Rouge's other bras in the cup, which typically will mean 1 cup size up from what you need in other brands. It is MUCH tighter in the band than Tutti Rouge's other bras. I comfortably wear a 32HH in the Liliana as my everyday bra, but the 32 in the Betty feels more like a 28. I cannot even fasten it without an extender. Most people will probably want to size up in the band in this bra. Women looking for a small 28 band or a 26 band should take note of this option!

The details on the bra are gorgeous, with delicate lace edging the cups and a ruffle underneath. Tutti Rouge speaks to my personal aesthetic in a way that most bra brands don't. Even Cleo, my standby, has recently disappointed me by delving into a look I'd call "80s tropical nightclub chic as imagined by someone who has never been to a nightclub". (Sorry, Cleo. I still love you. I'm sure your next collection will be more to my taste.) Tutti Rouge's bras are consistently "that bra I always wished I could buy, but which never existed until now". I LOVE this exaggerated floral print, which totally turns the tired over-used floral concept on its head.

And I passionately love the shape:

The side-angle even better displays this miracle of bra engineering:

 The Betty's compact, rounded, cleavage-y shape is perfect for dresses and special occasions. Due to the lack of elastic in the band, I personally don't rely on this bra as an everyday staple, but lovers of firm bands can and will.

A Southern Winter Wonderland

     Well, looks like it's time to bust out some of my favorite pea coats again because... IT'S SNOWING!!! In Georgia? That's right, the winter that's been here since December has finally given us a taste of the powdery, white snow that is synonymous with the season. Not only was I excited to sport my winter-white pea coat from Old Navy, but it was also a chance to let some of my accessory faves get some use. For the main outfit, I paired my coat with some black skinnies, and a classy pair of black, wedge boots (don't ask where I got them, I can never remember). 

 

 

     Now, onto those accessories I mentioned: I topped the look off with a white scarf from Cynthia Rowley that looks as fluffy and soft as the snow itself, and a tan, turban-inspired headband I got from Rollick Clothing Boutique. The headband is a particularly special piece, as it is beautifully designed with a beaded flower design across the front. The store I found it at, Rollick, is a small, very unique spot in the Virginia Highlands, or VaHi, area of Atlanta. This store ALWAYS has the cutest, most unique pieces, and I just cannot stay away. They are definitely worth checking out if you ever find yourself in the area. Well, I hope you enjoy this simple, but fun winter look. Now, I need to go play in the snow, because... It's Georgia, and this NEVER happens!

 

 

 

 

Panache "Sienna" Review

In my opinion, Panache’s Sienna bra is one of their greatest triumphs. If you’ve had success with their other bras, then this bra will seem like heaven to you. Before anyone gets excited, though, here are two things to know:

It runs small in the cup. The specialty store I go to in the US always brings this bra to their customers in a cup size bigger than their normal size. I would similarly recommend that everyone go up one cup size in this bra. 

It doesn’t come in a 28 band. Sadly, this beautiful bra, which gives me the best shape of any bra I’ve ever worn, does not come in my actual size. Since it runs one cup size small, I’d want a 28JJ instead of my normal 28J; instead, I have to be satisfied with a 30J. I don’t like to advise “sister sizing” since it can cause back pain, so if you wear a 28 band normally, I’d only recommend getting this bra if you feel comfortable with the idea of altering the band later. I’ve started on the tightest hook, and as soon as it stretches out, I’ll need to take in the band.

That said, this bra is really beautiful. It’s popped up in various colors over the years…

…but I think this recent Navy/Plum color is the best I’ve seen.

This bra gives me the shape I consider ideal.

I love the fact that the overlay is a rich navy blue, rather than black, which can look flat next to other colors. The plum underneath is a beautiful satin—I just wish I could feel the texture of it. I also love the fact that the lace continues on the band. In general, the look of this bra is very luxurious and sophisticated, in contrast to the cute/fun bras I usually wear, so wearing it makes me feel like I'm doing something special for myself.

I like a round, compact shape to my boobs, and Panache is the brand that really knows how to deliver this. Sadly, they are also the brand that makes bras that are bewilderingly, almost criminally uncomfortable. The Sienna, like most Panache bras, has very wide underwires. After bending them into the shape of my body, I found the bra comfortable, except for one problem—the casing of the underwire is very stiff at the center gore, and since my boobs are close-set, it tends to poke a lot right at the top corners. This painful problem has lessened a lot with wear, but during an unfortunate incident when I slipped down some steps wearing my brand-new Sienna, the wire actually cut me a little. I know this wouldn’t have happened if not for the fall, but again, I have to ask if it is really necessary to make bras with materials that could draw blood in any situation.

Let’s just say, the Sienna is great enough that I’m willing to overlook the fact that it literally stabbed me. I can promise there is just about no other bra I would say that about. 

A Love Letter To Empreinte, The Brand That Changed My Life (Guest Post)

(This post is written by a very special guest writer, my sister! I hope you enjoy it.)

I'm picky about bras. Back before I knew about proper bra sizing, I refused to wear anything besides intense pushup bras in black or hot pink. So when I first got properly fitted, I tried on all the bras in my size and I hated them all passionately. Don't even get me STARTED on 582 variations I tried of the Tango, a bra that looks utterly horrendous on me. 

I hated all the bras, that is, except for one. The only problem was that the one I liked? It cost $279. It was an Empreinte.

Empreinte is a brand that I haven't seen talked about much on bra blogs. The heart attack-inducing price tag is probably the reason for that. (Believe me, I could not afford it either; I split the price with my mom and didn't buy another bra for almost two years.) The other reason is that in the US, Empreinte can only be sold by a handful of "certified retailers," so they're hard to find and nearly impossible to get for cheaper than retail. While some websites (like Figleaves) sell them, once you enter a US shipping address, it won't let you buy them. I've found a few on Ebay (around $40, much more reasonable), but I felt slightly guilty when doing so because it's not entirely "legit."

But despite the difficulty of getting ahold of them and the absurd prices, I love Empreinte bras. In fact, they're really the only bras I wear regularly. For me, Empreinte is just that good.

My boobs are full on the bottom and not at all on on the top, and they're pretty wide set. With my shape, I'm most comfortable in an unpadded, molded cup. I'm a 30E, and because I'm lazy (or live an exciting life? ha), I also prefer a versatile bra that can fit situations from everyday workwear to sexy scenarios. I've owned three Empreinte styles, which all fit the description above. From Ebay I know Empreinte also makes non-molded bras, but I've never owned or seen them in a store, so this is by no means a comprehensive brand overview; it's more like a love letter to the bra brand that changed my life. 

Since Empreinte is shrouded in mystery, I'm not sure about their size range. The bras I've seen on Ebay generally start around a C cup and go up as high as an F or FF, and range from a 30 back to a 38 or so. That's not definitive, though. I also don't know, because none of the bras I own have appeared on their bizarrely un-navigable website, what the model/style names for any of my bras are. I own (and occasionally wear!) a couple of Freya Decos, which is a fairly well-known style, so I will use the Deco as a point of comparison to my molded Empreinte bras.

The main reason I like Empreintes as an everyday bra is they give a well-supported shape that is at the same time very natural. Compared to a Deco, my Empreinte molded bras are made of a thinner foam and lack push-up properties. In a Deco, my boobs are held in close to my chest, and they're pushed up and together, giving me a TON of cleavage from the front, but making my boobs appear smaller from the side--the "purple shape".

By contrast, my cleavage in the Empreinte is subtle, and from the side my boobs look more like the size they actually are, but still have a rounded shape. Overall, it closely matches the natural state of my boobs while providing support--more like the "green shape", which I prefer. In the following photo, the left shows an Empreinte bra, while the right shows a Deco, both in a 30E. You can see the Deco gives much less projection.

I wear the same size in the Empreinte as I do in the Deco, and I don't quite fill out the top of the Empreinte cups, which means there is room for people with fuller-on-top boobs. But if you're between band sizes in the Deco and wear the tighter of two possible bands, I would go up one band size (and down one cup size) in the Empreinte.

I also think Empreinte bras are really beautiful and sexy. I've had three different designs: one that was black with a subtle pattern of black glitter; a second that was white with a pattern of black pansies:

... and a third, which I own in both black and white, is a solid colored bra with a flower detail attached to the left strap and the center gore:

I love the subtle design details that keep all three of these styles interesting and beautiful even though they are overall basic. I particularly like the straps on the third model; they are thinner than the Deco's and look delicate, but they aren't too delicate to provide support.

The place where Empreinte bras really stand out, though, is their incredibly high quality and long-lasting construction. Remember the bra I bought for $279 and couldn't afford another for two years? I wore that bra every single day for that almost-two-year period. Not only did it hold up for 600+ wears but it continued to support me surprisingly well even when I shrank a band size. What that means is the band is high enough quality to not stretch out over a period of many wears. That, or the Empreinte manufacturers made a deal with the devil to produce magical always-supportive bras.

I cringe to recommend to others a bra that costs $279 retail. That's just plain expensive, and I was incredibly lucky to be able to afford it. But if you are able to put together the cash upfront, I do think the Empreinte comes out to be a solidly cost-effective purchase, given how long it lasts. It's also versatile, going from office wear to lounging at home to a date to even low-impact exercise (yoga or low-impact dance), so it allowed me to get away with owning only one bra. Then there are the hidden costs, like back pain and low self esteem, that for me still come with other bras that aren't as well constructed. So while I've had flirtations with other bras (Freya, Panache, an ill-considered fling with a Masquerade), I always come back to the Empreinte. If you see one on Ebay in your size or if you have some cash to spare at one of the "certified retailers," definitely consider giving it a try.